Escalante River in southern Utah

It has been called one of the most scenic waterways in the world. Possibly it is, but the trip is difficult owing to low flow, length, remoteness, difficulty of finding potable water, thorny Russian Olive trees (Elaeagnus angustifolia) along the banks, and lack of good take-out alternatives. All these factors make it a once in a lifetime opportunity, this time we really mean it. Side hikes are excellent however, especially Coyote Creek.

The river, or creek you might say, cuts through multiple layers of rock that you can recall with the handy mnemonic phrase: “many canyon walls know no capitalist exploitation” – that is, Moenkopi, Chinle, Wingate, Kayenta, Navajo, Carmel, Entrada (bottom to top). If Powell Reservoir were reliably full, enabling frequent motorboat traffic, perhaps a McDonulds ad on Stevens Arch could eliminate the federal deficit.

The Gary C. Nichols guidebook River Runner's Guide to Utah and Adjacent Areas (1986) complains about cattle grazing upstream of Scorpion Gulch, but either this stopped when the canyon was declared part of Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, or we did not notice. Nichols recommends 10" on the put-in bridge at Calf Creek. The Cassady/Cross/Calhoun guidebook Western Whitewater says this river was the last in the US discovered by white men, and that highest flows could occur anytime from early May to mid June.

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Waning moon over Bryce Canyon	From free viewpoint on road to Escalante

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Put in at the riverside park northwest of the highway 12 bridge. Although Calf Creek enters just below the bridge, flow remains skimpy. In 2001 we saw many large fish in Calf Creek.

Road descends into Escalante valley	Our GPS is useless so we consult maps

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Good campsite on the left bank with clear water from Deer and Boulder creeks. The river is slow until this point, but the added water hastens flow.

Good camp at Boulder Creek confluence	Clear water mixes with muddy Escalante

Looking up Boulder and Deer Creeks	Upstream view with Escalante river below

Moderate rapidette, rare on Escalante	Crack goes all the way through

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Spring on the right bank, across from a campsite at The Gulch.

Good water at this riverside spring	Campsite across from spring near The Gulch

Desert varnish as the canyon deepens	Or perhaps the walls just get higher

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Horse Canyon enters on the left. Excellent side hike.

Monolith at the mouth of Horse Canyon	Quicksand, not very deep

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Unlabeled Creek enters on the left, upstream of Big Bown Bench.

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Silver Falls Creek enters on the left. Trailhead many miles upstream.

First arch visible from the river	Llama pack trip down Silver Falls Creek

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Harris Wash enters on the right, with reliable semi-clear water and many good campsites. A trailhead can be reached many miles upstream.

Near the mouth of Harris Wash	Harris Wash has many good campsites

Hikers dwarfed by walls of Harris Wash	Eventually this hike leads to a road

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Fence Canyon enters on the right. Shortly upstream the canyon splits. The left (southern) canyon leads shortly but steeply to a trailhead.

Interesting unnamed side canyon	Fence Canyon with eponymous fences

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Neon Canyon enters on the left. An easy hike, not to be missed, although it is easy to miss, leads to a photographic bonanza.

Neon Canyon might be the most famous	Photo destination for the llama packers

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Twenty-Five Mile Wash enters on the right. Excellent campsite, but the side hike is not as dramatic as you might expect.

Another arch visible from river	Rapid mostly caused by brush pile

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West Moody Creek enters on the left. Trailhead many miles upstream.

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East Moody Creek enters on the left. Good side hike.

About half a mile downstream on the Escalante is a stranded meander on the left.

Storm clouds gather over Moody Canyon	Flash flood carries brush and trees

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Scorpion Gulch enters on the right. Immediately downstream is a large bench with good camping. Vegetation is thick at the mouth of Scorpion Creek, making it difficult to enter the canyon, but a Yosemite-like formation appears upstream.

Camped on high ground near Scorpion Creek	Yellow Yosemite in the morning light

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The river bends left around a purple (Chinle?) shale formation, The first rapid created by this rock formation is a long class II+, which might be rated class III because of the many moves required, however the waves are not big.

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Scorpion Rapid, possibly class IV, scout left
A second more-difficult rapid, with many big boulders, is about two miles downstream at a sharp left bend, and created by a similar rock formation. It probably changes from year to year, but in 2001 we rated it class IV. A ways downstream was a similar left bend with boulders, but no rapid.

The big rapid was almost fully brush-choked	Passable channel shown here, not easy

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Fools Canyon enters on the right, providing water and a good campsite. The Elephant's Ear is visible after a short hike upstream.

Hiking up Fools Canyon	Elephant's Ear looms overhead

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Stevens Canyon enters on the left. The river begins a horseshoe bend around the resistant sandstone ridge where Stevens Arch was formed.

Stevens Arch from the north side	Stevens Arch from the south side

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Coyote Creek enters on the right. Good camping under the overhang. This is the approximate high-water mark of Powell reservoir. Excellent side hike up the canyon, with two arches, one double, a natural bridge, and many scenic waterfalls in a redrock canyon.

Overhang camp at mouth of Coyote Creek	Evening view of Stevens Arch from camp

Cliff Arch along Coyote Creek	Coyote Creek Natural Bridge

Jacob Hamblin (double) Arch, diagonal view	Farthest upstream of three waterfalls

Second of three waterfalls	Third of three waterfalls

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The river cuts thru the mud of Powell reservoir, cleanly at first, then though mudflats with unclear channels. You could hike out from Coyote Creek, taking the route shown in the picture below, climbing to reach Forty Mile Ridge after about three tough miles. The most convenient but expensive option is a motorboat shuttle.

Difficult hike-out climbs the slope leftward	Motorboat shuttle hired to Bullfrog Marina

For carrying out here, The Nichols guidebook says to hike about .25 mile up Coyote Creek, climb a rock wall, then follow the trail up to where the sandy slope comes closest to the top of the cliff. At this spot is a very narrow crack in the wall. After you climb to the top, the parking lot is another 2 miles uphill over slickrock.

The point where a motorboat can meet you varies with reservoir level, of course. Usually it is at some wide spot with deep water. Motorboat shuttles are privately contracted and somewhat difficult to schedule. Map software says the drive from Bullfrog Marina to Escalante, all on paved roads, takes 3.7 hours.

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When Powell Reservoir is low, it is feasible to paddle all the way down the Escalante arm to the Colorado, turn right, and in about 2 miles reach Hole in The Rock. A high-clearance or 4WD road ends on the mesa about 500-1000' above, depending on reservoir level. This dirt road, Hole in the Rock road, provides the shortest shuttle, turning south from highway 12 about four miles east of Escalante. Map software says the drive from Hole in the Rock to Escalante takes 8.5 hours.

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